Description
Stage 5 stands out for its extreme difficulty, combining considerable length with poorly maintained trails, with sections where the path completely disappears. These conditions make it a particularly perilous journey, despite the spectacular views it offers.
Matéliane
Departure from the shelter at 6:30 AM for the first part (Matéliane), a path along the mountain side strewn with numerous fallen trees. At times, it's necessary to literally crawl to overcome certain obstacles. Some parts of the path are so collapsed that there is just enough space to pass. Towards the end of the Matéliane section, a rope helps to descend into the bed of a river, followed by a ladder fixed in the rock to climb back up. The ladder, despite the clutter of branches from two trees that have fallen on the path, seems well fixed, and we manage to weave between the branches. Just after, another rope and a smaller ladder help us climb up onto another stretch of the trail.
Petit and Grand Sans Toucher
A short respite awaits in the Herminier savannah, allowing us to catch our breath a bit before tackling the second part (Petit and Grand Sans Toucher). The path, still along the mountain side, is not particularly steep but progress is made difficult by bushes at the beginning and fallen trees towards the end. Here, we have our first doubt about our route: several parallel paths seem to have been traced. The use of GPS becomes indispensable to find our way.
From Camp Maréchal to Savane aux Ananas
We reach the pass under Morne Bontemps at 1:30 PM, after 7 hours of hiking, and we are not even halfway through the stage in distance. The path becomes almost invisible after the pass, which is psychologically taxing. After descending a few meters, the trail becomes a bit more visible but remains obstructed by vegetation. Approaching the Savane aux Ananas, the path finally flattens, but multiple trails cut through the bush, requiring frequent reference to the GPS.
In the middle of the Savane aux Ananas, the path widens slightly, offering a welcome relief. A good climb still awaits us to the next intersection. 15 minutes before reaching the crossroads, a river allows us to refill water. Arriving at the intersection at 4:30 PM, we are relieved to find signs and well-maintained and wider paths, far from the jungle we have just crossed.
From Grande Découverte to Col de l'Echelle
The return to good paths and the breathtaking view of La Soufrière lift our spirits. We proceed towards Grande Découverte and start the ascent of Carmichaël, scheduled for 1h30, which we complete in 1h15. Fatigue does not slow our pace on a "real" path. It's 6:30 PM when we reach the Col de l'Échelle, just at sunset, and we take out our headlamps.
Access to the La Citerne Shelter
With night falling, we opt for safety and decide to head to the La Citerne shelter via the old road rather than going through the mountain of l'Échelle. Exhausted, we arrive at the junction leading to the last stretch towards La Citerne. A sign indicates a 30-minute walk, but a prefectural order prohibits access due to a landslide. We try our luck, but after the first turn, access proves impossible. A huge landslide has completely engulfed the road. There might be a way through, but the night and the danger deter us.
End
Forced to turn back, it's 8:30 PM. After 14 hours of hiking, with morale low, we don't know where to spend the night. We decide to call a friend to pick us up at the Bains Jaunes parking lot.
Trail Conditions and Notes
| Criterion | Notes | Description |
|---|---|---|
| Weather | 5/5 | Sunny and clear skies. Magnificent view of La Soufrière in the late afternoon! |
| Mud | 2/5 | A bit of mud in the forest. |
| Markings | 0/5 | No trail or GR marks and no signs from Refuge Frébault to Grande Découverte. Beware of false starts at some places (Between Vallée Touchard / Morne Bontemps and at Savane aux Ananas) that lead off the trail. Map reading skills + GPS absolutely indispensable. |
| Trail Quality | 0/5 | The trail is no longer maintained. Landslide and fallen trees below Matéliane. Fortunately, the 2 ladders and ropes still hold... The trail is almost invisible when passing Morne Bontemps crest. Road collapsed to reach La Citerne shelter. |
| Technical Passages | 4/5 | Matéliane: 2 ladders and ropes for small vertiginous and slippery passages. Under Petit and Grand Sans Toucher: part of the trail collapsed, watch out for ankles. |
| Terrain Type | 3/5 | All terrains encountered in previous stages and 1 long stage: forest, bushes, mountain flank, crest, unpaved road, paved road. |